Friday, September 21, 2012

My reflections from Korea. Final post



Reflections from Korea

I have had the privilege this September to attend the IUCN World Conservation Congress in Jeju Korea. IUCN (World Conservation Union) is the oldest, largest and most powerful conservation organization in the world with an observer status at the UN and with memberships cutting across governments, academia, NGOs and community conservation groups. The 2012 WCC held in the Korean island of Jeju was therefore an Olympics of sorts for the conservationists.
Delegates get ready for opening ceremony
 In my travel and stay in Korea I have learnt a few things which I think may be worth sharing with my fellow countrymen. First and the principal lesson (and my reason for going to Korea) is that we must take better care of our environment and there are tough toiches we must make as individuals, communities and nations. The WCC sessions bringing together the smartest scientists, policy makers and governments tackled myriad of issues relating to the most pressing problems in our universe today; energy demand, better livelihoods and food security for estimated 9 billion people by 2050. Various presidents, former and present Prime ministers, Ministers and CEOs gave their views on how we can build more resilient food production systems, increase forest cover and allocate funds from our business process to offset and mitigate for environmental degradation occasioned by our commerce activities.

Korea was also illuminating in how international conservation politics is played. For some it is a game with its own unique rules and they derive such joy playing the game. It is a running joke in conservation politics that many conservationists have ten different opinions on anything which if you multiply by nearly 5000 delegates give you an astounding diversity of opinions, not the least because they are expressed in nearly 182 different languages! Having said that, the IUCN elections for various posts is a study in lobbying silently and efficiently, knowing your target audiences and which motions are important to them and appealing both to their selfish and altruistic interests. At the of the congress, the members elect office bearers for the next 4 years and it is a big deal to win one of these posts. In this year’s congress, Mr Zhang Xinsheng of China was elected to lead the world’s largest environmental organization for the next four years.

The maxim that all politics is local was brought to bear in Jeju when villagers from a nearby Gangjeong Village, also known as the Village of Water mobilized to protest against building a proposed naval base in their village. Korea, like Kenya will not allow you to picket and demonstrate when the President is addressing the meeting. Although subsequently they were able to protest later, on the opening day, the police made sure that no one could demonstrate within 2 kilometers of the convention centre. The villagers had very organized backers and they managed to have the naval base put as motion to be discussed which is a big deal in international conservation politics. But the lesson clearly is that participation and consent from citizens is necessary when undertaking such projects. The counter argument is that Korean needs to protect herself from aggression and therefore the need for the base. That is a matter that Koreans will sort but a lesson well learnt is that that no matter how small we are we can get our voices heard if we are determined and organised enough.

One of the other lessons is that strong focused leadership is a necessary and most important ingredient in moving the country forward. I was fortunate to spend some hours with a genial Korea TV producer who broke it down for me how their country has moved from “having the same GDP with Ethiopia (and Kenya) in the 1970 to the present US$31700”. Mr. Choi Tae Do, who works for Arirang, the largest Asian English TV network, told me that at 48 years of age, he had lived through the transformation from a relatively poor country to its present status as OECD country and leadership was key to achieving. President Lee Myung-bak is at the forefront of pushing his green growth model to the wider international community. And the Korean experience is well worth learning for Kenya as we try to achieve Vision 2030

My experience in Korea was not not confined to the Jeju Convention Centre only. I had a chance to see the sites and talk to some Koreans. Unlike some people I know who come to Africa for two weeks and go back home declaring themselves as African experts, I cannot claim expertise in Korean culture, politics and dynamics but role of women in Korea is extraordinary. Drawing parallel to some of our communities, in Jeju, the island I was visiting a woman diver is a revered person. One of our guides a Miss Kim whose second name I can’t pronounce described their role “In Jeju it is better to be born a cow than a woman, A cow only works in the field but a woman works in the field and also dives in the ocean to look for food”. The Haenyo women divers are known to dive up to 20 meters without oxygen tanks. This is a culture that is changing but the Koreans have opened a school where the remaining women divers can pass their skills and knowledge to another generation who may only dive for fun not food. A French woman has recently become the first non-Korean woman diver to complete the training!

I also visited a proposed carbon free island named  GOPADO which is near the most southerly part of Korea. It turned out (at least for the day I visited) to have the highest carbon per capita. There are only 284 people living in the island and there are two diesel driven boats taking people there. However, there are plans to put a smart grid and all power used will be from renewable sources. The solar farm is already up and two huge wind generators already in place. In the next few months they will be using renewable energy with fossil fuel driven generators only as a backup. An amazing fact about this island is that it has a smart school, with 9 children and 5 teachers!
Miss Kim (Right) explains how the Carbon Free Island will work

Throughout my stay in Korea, I was impressed by how dedicated Koreans are to learning. As an exhibitor and perhaps a less intimidating one, I was inundated with many Korean college students wishing to know more where I came from but as I later discovered practicing their English skills on me. Not bad, considering that english is my third language but I can now see the determination and believe that may have driven a poor country to lift itself by the bootstraps and become a serious player globally. In Kenya, our colleges and universities are busy churning out graduate whose skills are suited for where we have been not where we wish to go. If we are to achieve Vision 2030 we need to completely re-orient our education system to one that encourages innovation and risk taking rather than “robotic regurgitators”. Have you ever wondered how for example an Apple Inc factory is China is able to hire 30,000 engineers to supervise a 700,000 workforce. It requires that we train people for the skills which can move the nation up and we must have the vision and drive to do it. I was glad to meet Kenya students from the Pusan National University who are studying there and hopefully they will bring the Korean experience and contribute their bit.

As always, it is fun to meet other Kenyans in a foreign trip. As our testament to how quickly we adapt to foreign situations, I was pleasantly surprised to meet some Kenyan delegate who came equiped with food, uji flour, tea leaves and everything you would need to survive on the cheap and save precious dollars for that building project in Ruai/Mlolongo. I can completely identify with the Mwenye-nchi as Korea is definitely not a cheap country. I had the impression that Seoul, being the home of Samsung and LG, that electronics are cheap but I was surprised to see Nairobi prices are actually better than in Seoul. How that happens is a matter Samsung may be able to tell unless of course the quality in the City in the Sun is dodgy 

Finally, my lessons from the congress and my walkabouts:

  • That we can grow enough food for 9 billion people without inventing new technologies if only we ate less meat, used the resources more equitably and if the leaders talked the walk and walked the talk. To paraphrase Gandhi, our world today has enough for everyone’s needs but not enough for everyone’s greed.
  • That it is possible to increase forest cover and still develop and that there is one more than one way of doing things and that no country has the monopoly of the right answers. Bhutan, a small kingdom has increased forest cover from 61 to 80% in 20 years (can you imagine that!)
  • It is possible to have growth that is not only measured by GDP but also by Gross National Happiness. Bhutan demonstrates this too.
  • Korea is a country on the fast lane but struggling to retain crucial traditional heritage.
  • That young people in the whole wide world are becoming one tribe. The K-Pop music bands in Korea are like any other boy band in the world  and not any different from our own Sauti Sol, or Camp Mulla. The iPad generation will close cultural gaps faster than any other time in history. But on the downside, the kids dress all the same from Seoul to Istanbul to Nairobi.
  • That Thika Road is a good road but not a superhighway and Nanyuki-Rumuruti Road is not a road but a dirt trail that is in the map for roads but shouldn’t be!
  • That it is possible to dive 20 meters into the ocean without an oxygen tank as a way to make a living without having to undergo a PADI scuba diving course. 
  • That Kenya Airways needs to style up and offer a proper service to its clients.
  • That An nyoung ha seh yo is not a Kamba phrase for Anyany nyongo ni mseo but greetings in Korean language
 Till the next ......assignment.

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Dispatch from Jeju, Day 2


Wednesday, September 5, 2012






Beautiful view overlooking Jungmun beach.


I went exploring yesterday and being from a high altitude area, I didn’t reckon with the Mombasa-esque humidity in Jeju. Nanyuki, my hometown is 1970 AMSL and highest point in Jeju is 1950AMSL The result – I had a terrible headache at night. This was not helped very much by an over enthusiastic family a floor below mine who were giving themselves a fireworks display at night. Under normal circumstances, a little boy lives in me and I like the fireworks but yesterday was not one of those days and the headache had completely killed that boy. Thankfully, the fireworks didn’t last long and Maria, the kind of owner of the Family Pension and Resort where I am switched on the pool foundation which from my room simulates rain and I was off to dreamland. I still woke up with a headache but a bottle of cold water (which I should have had plenty of in the first place) and Tylenol cured the headache and I was up ready to go set up our Zeitz Foundation stand and see more of Jeju before the real exhibition starts tomorrow evening.



The Koreans sure know how to beautify their bridges. Imagine this on Nairobi river at the Riverside roundabout.

Everywhere you go in Korea there is strong influence of religion but the people are surprisingly modern. As a matter of fact, Korea looks like a country on steroids, everything is fast and the attention to detail is amazing. I was walking near the convention Centre and there was a group of Korean workmen giving hundreds of pots of flowers by bridge a Korean version of Extreme Makeover and their dedication and attention to detail is amazing. I am handicapped by my limited Korean (I am bragging by saying limited, it is nil) and I would have loved to chat them up but they smiled politely and asked if I wanted a picture by the bridge.



I had chance to explore by foot a few attractions near the convention Centre. First was the Iconic Seonim Bridge which calls you from far with its convex design and metal statues (obviously with a religious meaning) and from where you can observe the magnificent Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls. The waters are crystal clear and I must say the late Hon. John Michuki (immediate former minister for Environment) would have loved Nairobi River to look like that. I am a believer that we can still do it and make it an attraction just like here. I made my way to the bridge and for the first time since I arrived, someone spoke to me in English for longer than a sentence. Two Australian Chinese tourists were happy to chat with me and I was equally happy to temporarily quit sign language for about 20 minutes.



The iconic Seonim Bridge




At the statue of five Blessings





First stop was at the statue of five blessings. This foundation symbolizes the five blessings of longevity (tortoise) wealth (boar) honor (dragon) love (mandarin Duck) ad sons (carp). I was reminded to pick a blessing of my choice and stand in front of the animal symbol and in a weirdly similar Kenyan script, throw coins in the lucky bag, and I would receive that blessing. Thankfully they have stated that the coins gathered here would be used to help Korea’s under-privileged but they say in my hometown -once bitten by a snake, even a piece of rope makes youjump. And having recently seen Mwende twist her mouth to crazy angles, I didn't throw any coins and moved on to see the bridge. However, I pray for honour , thank God for my son and daughter (sorry girls, you are not among the five blessings) and pray for longevity to see my grandchildren. Wealth, I trust God will make my ends meet.




I went down to the falls and just like in Kenya’s Thompson falls at Nyahururu, the cameramen here insist on taking a commercial picture even though they can see clearly you are carrying a camera yourself. My limited (say non-existent) Korean and my Swahili refusal – hapana, sitaki, asante sana mzee – made things easier and I enjoyed the trip down to the falls and a breeze that reminds me of why I am in this job in the first place. To conserve nature and bequeath future generations what our forefathers bequeathed us.






The Waterfall

On a side note, it is quite difficult to buy a sim card here in Jeju. Today, I made for the Jungmun City Centre in search of a store selling SIM cards and phones. I found one named Olle and I must say that they even though they have the phones they are like Safaricom in 1999, they bundle the phone with a card as sell it as "Offer"and it is therefore useless because I have to unlock it when I get to Kenya. My hypothesis was also deconstructed when I inquired about the prices for phones. You see, I had assumed that this being the land of LG and Samsung the high end phones 9LG Optimus and Samsung) would cost slightly less than in Nairobi but I was rudely reminded by the price tags (and a dude who speaks no English) that when they say high end they meant Korean high end (per capita GDP $31,700 vs. Kenya’s 476.88 US) not Kenyan. I never bought the SIM card as my phone is not compatible with 1900 MHz frequency used here in Korea

This is easily a village road in Jeju.
To imagine that this country’s GDP was at par with Kenya in late 1960’s and early 70’s is very depressing for a patriot. We have the resources to develop our country and we have attractions that many other countries do not have. For the life of me, I cannot understand why our leadership fails to harness this potential but we are in another season of speeches and chasing the wind and we (keeping my fingers crossed) might actually get a leader who understands what the bigger picture is.
In some ways South Korea is like extension of the US but less arrogant and brash but still with grandness in the scale of the roads, the engineering ambition ad patriotism. Definitely something we Kenyans need to embrace. On that roads note, I would like to note that in the grand scale of things here, our newly minted Thika road would not qualify as a superhighway. It is a good road but it is not a superhighway. It doesn’t really present difficult engineering hoops to jump and when you see what Koreans have done with their roads you begin to get an idea why we should be on double speed to develop infrastructure if Vision 2030 is to be achieved


I am done pontificating for today and I need to go organize for tomorrow and make sure that people understand that in order to ensure sustainability we need to have a balance of Commerce, Conservation, Culture and Communities. That is the message that I have brought to Jeju, our 4C’s approach to sustainability and if you are attending the congress don’t fail to pass by stand 087 for more.
I am still investigating the three abundances – wind, rocks and women and three shortages – thieves, beggars and gates. So far the rocks claim is true, wind is a lot especially at night and unless I am mistaken, I am seeing as many men around here as women (or what do they mean?) I must confess, I haven’t seen a gate yet (other than at ICC Jeju), no beggars (they may have locked them up Nairobi style when we have guests) and thieves, I think I need to buy a policeman a few beers and get a drunken confirmation or confession.

Monday, September 3, 2012

Dispatches from Jeju



Tuesday September 4, 2012.

After a long and uneventful journey I arrived at the Jungmoon Family Pension and Resort (what a name!) in Seogwipo. The Family Pension and Resort will be my home for the next 10 days while attending and exhibiting for Zeitz Foundation at the 2012 IUCN World Conservation Congress being held in Jeju.

Today I woke up to a misty morning and fearing rain in what Korean TV said was going to be a rain filled afternoon, set out to the Jeju International Convention Centre where I will be setting up the exhibition tomorrow. I am still learning to negotiate taxi fares in denominations which if you think in Kenya Shillings terms, seem like a complete ripoff but that is a story for another day as Kenya is not Korea

People say first impressions are important and I have to say I have already been impressed by Koreans. From a service perspective, they are efficient, polite and quick. This was evidenced by the speed in which my luggage, mislabeled in Nairobi by the Korean Air local representative, was able to get to me within an hour from 2 Airports 50 kilometers apart. The luggage was rerouted to Jeju from Incheon Airport and arrived before me as I had to take a flight out of Busan to Jeju.

The Congress is supported by the Korean government and the citizens of Jeju are giving it their all to deliver what they are describing as the greenest congress ever. Jeju International Conference Centre is a magnificent 6 story building with great ocean views and built with very green concepts in mind. It is a beehive of activities today awaiting the official opening ceremony on the 6th September. 

Looking at all the happenings today, I am hoping I can learn as much as possible from the Koreans as this presents a fantastic opportunity for them to showcase their culture, hospitality industry, transport planning, architecture and also their green technology. In Kenya, there is a talk of developing conference tourism and I hope the numerous Kenyans coming for the conference can learn as much in developing this branch of the industry. 
Jeju ICC - where the Conference will be hosted

Back to Jeju. Today morning I took a stroll around town and it was quite pleasant save for temporary illiteracy in reading Korean. Luckily, I now have a map in English and the guidebook that start with giving the reasons why Jeju is so famous.
Sample the following:
Jeju island is called Samda-do (island of three plenty’s) because of its abundance of rocks, wind and women. It is also called Sammoo-do (Island of three shortages) because there are no thieves, beggars or gates in front of the houses.
That certainly seems like a place one would like to live with those abundances and shortages but we will see in the next ten days if those claims remain true or if it is tourist brochure copy editor gone in overdrive. 

I passed by the Museum of African Art and other than the beauty of the building (copied from a mosque in Mali, I think our Nairobi museum is fabulously rich in content and the Koreans could learn from us there.
Museum of African Art - Jeju
For now, I can certainly say, Mrs Maria and her family who manage this Jungmoon Family Pension and Resort have been very kind to me. Sure enough there are no gates in her compound, so at least one of the shortages is true locally. Let me go out and investigate the abundances and the other two shortgages. Watch this space.